Beijing hosts Olympics 2008 and wins Culinary Gold.

It is said in China that donkey's meat is as good as dragon's meat. I had the opportunity to try some donkey, reminded me of dry salami. Not quite as fatty, served as an appie with an oil and vinegar dipping sauce. And I may have and may is the operative word here, eaten battered fried dragon. Not quite sure.

700 years before Christianity, chefs in China were recognized for their victories with outstanding dishes of noodles and spicy vegetables. The rich and prominent city residents enjoyed meat such as a delectable camel hump or ox tail stew.

Beijing is the culinary gold of the Chinese mainland and like capital cities everywhere, it is a city that vibrates with life from its business community, diplomats, foreign journalists, and 16 million citizens. It is this population that feasts on one of the world's most complex cuisines. There are 8 well known series of regional cuisines in China. There are a million varieties of chicken soup, and 7,000 types of long grain rice. If you are a true foodie, you will also find a taste of Thai or Indian in Chinese kitchens.

Because I am Vancouverite, a metropolis that is known for having the largest group of Asians outside of any Asian country in the world, I felt right at home in Beijing. It was easy to find your way around the subway, negotiate a late night escort (usually the son or daughter of the proprietor) down the dark alleys to the washrooms, and equally easy to order a meal or purchase goods.

I had a fabulous time visiting the old teahouses, sitting on low stools with a space heater at my feet learning the language while teaching a bit of English. Tea is called "Cha" and after I purchased my teapot, I was presented with a gift box of Oolong, Black Dragon tea. Tea is discussed the way we discuss wine. China has over 600 wineries and I believe in the future they will embrace the drinking of wine the way we do.

At the Forbidden City, I became a celebrity with Asian visitors wanting to have a photograph with the fair-haired freckly woman. Up to 2,000 chefs at one time cooked at the City for the Emperor, his concubines, and his countless advisors. 30 million Chinese have taken their cooking to every part of the world. Though, with a population of 1.2 billion, there are still plenty of fine chefs within China.

The Summer Palace outside the city was cold in the spring. Thick socks and mitts are a necessity to stop the chilly winds blowing in from Siberia. The Chinese are proud of the Palace, as they should be. Before entering we breakfasted on bowls of hot soybean soup and steamed pork buns.

My favourite place was the Temple of Heaven - made of wood and requiring the protection of its employees who are professionally trained fireman. Would hate to think of heaven burning up - that would be sacrilegious.

Elsewhere, beautiful boulevards, and stately buildings make up the core of Beijing. At night the city glimmers like the Champs Elysees and Las Vegas. Beijing is a city that moves, workers peddling by the millions on one-speed bikes, colourful streetlights sparkle a rainbow of light, and frogs and fish leap in tanks of even the smallest restaurants.

Meals are social event and a must have dish is Peking, or Roasted Duck. Quanjude, our restaurant choice, has a sensuous look. Behind the glass, smiling chefs regard us as we enter the dining ballroom. Picturesque in an unusual way, cooks are dressed in immaculate white uniforms and stand in front of brick ovens with dancing orange fiery flames. Over their heads, right in their kitchen, elegant crystal chandeliers hang down. "You are what you eat" and therefore food as a medicine in China is not a foreign idea after all.

As are the famous fowls of France, Chinese ducks are artificially fed. 70 days after birth a duck can weigh up to 7 pounds. After it has been killed and the feathers removed, air is pumped beneath the skin to make it balloon. The internal organs are taken out and the cavity is washed. It is then hung on a hook, scalded with boiling water. A syrupy mixture made from diluted malt sugar is poured over the skin and the ducks are left to dry. Before hanging to roast, the bird is filled with water, which boils the meat from the inside while it roasts on the outside. The hanging, while roasting, keeps the bird from being oily, and the malt syrup on the skin gives it a crisp texture and golden colour.

Peking Duck is always served in well-cut slices. The bird is sliced in 120 pieces and it is served on a thin pancake, crepe-like bread with matchsticks of cucumber and thinly sliced leek. A condiment of hoisin sauce is spread on the crepe. Mouth-watering. Duck soup is presented at the end of the meal.

Another preferred meal is the "hot pot" which we ate on the "Street of Dishes". The hot pot is a legacy of the Muslim horseman who surged over the Great Wall. Ma, which means horse, is a Chinese family name used by millions and whose history is tied to the Muslim raiders.

The hot pot's sweetness contrasts with its sourness. A fragrant boiling broth with lotus bud flower, ginger, spices and pepper sauces is kept hot via a gas burner at the table. We simmered thin slices of pork, mutton, chicken, mushrooms, clams, fish, noodles and bean curd. We nibbled on pickled garlic that had a perfumed lychee flavour (and I desperately need someone to mail me a jar!) Over the meal I was asked my blood type and if I had ever changed my name? The Chinese determine temperament through blood type and asking if I had ever changed my name was the polite way to find out if I had ever been married.

Since my dinner guests know I love to cook they gave me a recipe that they like to use during the Spring Festival. Weeping Willow Leaves. Clean them, cook in boiling water, soak in cold water for 8 hours, spice them and eat. Willow can only be served in the springtime.

One of the prettiest sites in the restaurants was the clear pots of chrysanthemum tea with dozens of small whole floating flowers. Flower filled tea added an element of finesse to an evening out. The tea also serves as a way to relieve internal heat and the flower is known for its ability to brighten the eyes. Like a Monet in a glass, I just really like the way it looked.

Breakfast was often purchased from a little pushcart around the corner of my hotel. Devouring a savory crepe with egg, green onion, spices and chilies warmed up frigid mornings. The two basics of stir-frying are green onion and ginger, yin and yang. Yin is yielding, dark, soft and feminine. Yang is hard, bright, vigorous and masculine. Scorpions on a stick, yin or yang or yikes! You tell me?

The people of Beijing are a sweet and friendly lot. There is an air of innocence and enthusiasm about them, something hardly found in a people of a sizeable city, let alone anywhere in the world. They are eager to meet Westerners and passionate about soccer. So be prepared to know all the names of the world famous teams and its players. The Chinese are generous, artistic and believe in the magic of the universe.

Ninety percent of the population of Beijing rides a bike, so that means they can eat to their heart's content. It is said that you are not a true Beijing dweller unless you have had your bike stolen twice. It is a social problem, my guide confided to me. Not to worry I said, we have the same social problem in Canada, except our bikes are stolen even when they are locked up.

Venture out and drink up life!

The Sipping Chef
Email: chefsusan@wineries.ca