Mom Tri's Boathouse Wine & Grill

When I first moved to Western Canada to be by the sea, not knowing a soul, I struggled like anyone would. In an effort to get me to return to the East, my mother said, "You cannot live off the scenery." Well, after all these years, I say you should always try to live off the scenery first.

Outside my window it's rainy - though I did see a bald eagle circling but - if you really want to live off the scenery then Mom Tri's Boathouse Boutique Gourmet Hotel on Kata Beach, Phuket Thailand is the place for you. "A hotel for people who prefer not to stay in hotels," says owner and architect Mom Tri Devakul. What makes this place unique is the Boathouse has only 36 rooms. All of which face the ocean.

Upon entering the seaside terrace the shocking turquoise colour of sea and sky stops you in your tracks. Stunned with the sheer beauty, your shoulders relax and your gaze falls to the pink bougainvilleas, bamboo chairs, and terracotta tiles. The gentle sound of the lapping ocean, singing birds, the ever so slight humming of the wooden fans stills your thoughts. As you sit, the orchestra of beetles in the jungle begins its song. You feel better about life. Then you notice the teak bar and a sign pointing upstairs to the Island Lounge. Your neighbour, remarkably, has a wine bucket complete with a long stemmed salmon coloured rose.

Sooooooo a wine bucket? Though beer is wonderful in the Thai temperatures, the food is multi-dimensional, with plenty of seafood dishes. Craving a glass of wine is a natural, though; wine is very difficult to come by in Thailand. Mom Tri's is the only place in the country to win the Wine Spectator's Award of excellence consistently since 1995.

With over 460 labels of wine, Pouily Fuisse from France makes for a lovely sip with buttered warm multigrain bread. Next, Etchart chardonnay from Argentina compliments the Goong Pan shrimp crepes served with a plum and chili sauce. The Etchart is floral on the nose with hints of melon. The crepes are crisp, non-greasy, and a classic with the chili. Carrots carved in the shape of flowers act as a garnish. Purple orchids grace every table.

During lunch I pass the time by perusing the dinner menu, which incredibly reads twenty-five appetizers, soups and salads. I am tempted by the Baked Baby Clams; Seabass Carpaccio with rosemary olive oil, Assorted Seafood with papaya pearl, poppy seeds drizzled with a lime dressing. Steamed Curry Mousse with seafood wrapped in a banana leaf.

I was planning on swimming after lunch and was eyeing the Rock Lobster for a main, although, they are usually found at the bottom of the sea. My server recommends Pla Neung Manao, Steamed Seabass flavoured with lime, garlic, spring onions and green and red chilies. A white fish whose tastes are true Thai and one that speaks to me of the Mediterranean. A glass of red Bordeaux with plum notes flatters the dish and does fix the two weeklong craving. I am more than content.

Other dinner items include: Pan-roasted Breast of Duck topped with a creamy sauce flavoured with Lychee; Roasted Australian Rack of Lamb encrusted with Oriental green herbs served with thyme sauce. Tasting Menus of either French or Thai, including Grilled Beef Tenderloin and Chicken Dumplings in a coconut sauce.

Longingly I eye the desserts of Almond Cake served with pineapple and coconut sherbet and the Crispy Pineapple Wontons dressed with vanilla sauce, then, I hear, the ocean calling my name.

Villa Royale & Mom Tri's Wellness Restaurant

Next day it's up to visit the Villa Royale where six exclusive suites have been created. Royalty from Europe regularly stays though you need not be royal to have a mystical experience.

Climbing the stairs I feel as if entering a sacred Temple, the splashing of fountains in ornamental ponds commingling with a tiny breeze. Gold-colored fish swim about the lilies; resting stone elephants invite peace and the blue bay of little Kata swishes below the cliff. Everything is exquisite, delicate and alive. The tranquil beauty is reminiscent of the ancient city of Sukhothai, the original capital of the Thai kingdom.

About me is the most fanciful collection of sculpture I have ever seen in a hotel or restaurant. We tour the guest suites with cathedral teak ceilings, inlaid rock floors surrounded by black stone tile, gleaming silver sinks, engraved wooded doors from Chang Mai, and bamboo pillars - all designed to calm. Lunch is set on a deck made of aquamarine stone with a view of the ocean and the salt-water pool below.

I start off with Sautéed Mussels topped with Parmesan cheese along with baguette. The mussels, in three white dishes with four mussels apiece bathed in olive oil, garlic, shallots, cilantro and a hint of fennel, are brilliant. A New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc is the drink to rinse them down.

It is easy to decide on the next course - the Rock lobster missed yesterday makes another appearance. Served grilled and whole with Indian curry, delicate breadcrumbs and hints of spice without the heat. The taste of it is as transcendent as the surroundings. Those that think the perfect lobster is boiled or steamed and unadorned are missing out on one of the best lobster dishes I have ever eaten in my life! The dish includes steamed asparagus, broccoli, cauliflower, carrots and rice.

The Villa Royale Wellness kitchen has a different menu everyday. Tomorrow's Rock Lobster is sautéed with tomato ginger sauce. The food is fresh, with vegetables grown on their own farm in Northern Thailand. The award winning wine list is available in this dining pavilion too. They also carry a selection of eight organic wines from Spain, Italy and France.

How is it that everything is so superb? Well, that is what happens when you cross an architect with classic chefs and a French general manager Louis Bronner. And if the whole experience isn't enough - Chef Tamanoon gives cooking classes every Saturday and Sunday.

Venture out and drink up life!

The Sipping Chef
Email: chefsusan@wineries.ca